First Impressions
The entire time we were in Thailand and Laos, the weather was abnormally hot (~106˚F / 41˚C), the air choked with smoke from wildfires, and making this first part of the trip a bit painful. Staying in central Chiang Mai, we were able to relatively easily walk from place to place, finding random stops to cool down every once in a while. Luckily, once we decided to explore further afield, we had decided to rent a car and weren’t reliant on buses and taxis.
Wat Chedi Luang (วัดเจดีย์หลวง)
In the very center of Chiang Mai is a Buddhist Temple, Wat Chedi Luang, which was constructed in the 14th and 15th Centuries. The temple originally housed the Emerald Buddha, before a large earthquake damaged the Stupa in 1545, after which the Emerald Buddha was moved to Luang Prabang (now Laos, then the Kingdom Lan Xang). Despite the earthquake damage, the temple is still quite impressive. You are still able to climb the stairs to the top of the temple and look out across the city
Unlike Bangkok, which has several major commercial areas and the royal palace, Chiang Mai seems to have a clearly-defined and proper center. The city clearly shows off the urban shape of a more traditional spritually-inspired city: temple or palace complex at a high point in the center, with square walls and moats set about the center.
Central Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai’s charming center feels relatively calm and laid back with plenty to see and do. There are many shops selling the region’s famous khao soi, a dish of curry, noodles, and meat (generally chicken or beef). While in Northern Thailand, I probably ate one bowl each day of this dish. As the sun set, we walked around and through Tha Phae Gate (ประตูท่าแพ), another one of Chiang Mai’s famous landmarks. The gate is set at the main East-West road into the old city and closed to vehicular traffic. The city walls and ramparts on each side of the old wooden gate call to mind an older Thailand.
After getting a much needed foot massage, we walked a bit outside the old city to have Burmese food. At this point, it’s been 7 years since I visited Myanmar and I’ve only rarely had the chance to enjoy Burmese food since my one and only visit. In Northern Thailand, there is a significant number of Burmese living and working, some recent refugees and others long-term residents.